And I would walk 490 miles – Espinal to Zubiri

The guidebook seemed to indicate that today would be pretty easy. We’re past the big peaks of the Pyrenees. Distance wise it was a quickie, got into the Alberge by 1 and set off around 8 so, not bad. However I am starting to smell, my feet specifically have developed an odour of something a little rotten. They put me in the far corner, on the top bunk, my feet are as far from everyone else without actually being outside.

Today’s walk, 15k was very hilly and then very downhilly, there were lots of stray cats who came over for a cuddle and a few big birds circled over head doubtless believing the smell was a dead mouse.

Today’s walk, started with an incline to Alto Mezquiriz and then a steep descent into Viskarret, where i stowed my emergency muffin, then another uphill push to Alto de Erro, followed by a descent so steep into Zubiri you are forced to semi-run (or fall).

Oh. And it rained and the temperature dropped in one day from 35 degrees to 16 degrees. As the jumper testifies.


Today is the first day of walking with other pilgrims. Everyone seems so nice… Everyone seems so fit… Everyon seems so fragrant! There were a couple of smelly German boys in the Alberge maybe I can hang out with them tonight.
Today is also the first day where I forgot the excitement of the camino and just walked. Without trying to walk, or being conscious of walking, there was no pain in the feet or the body, I found my camino stride and started to work through the reasons life sent me on camino. I had vowed to read a course in miracles while on camino, so far ive just watched Wimbledon.

I’ll read it tonight. Hola from Day 3 of the camino.


The medieval Puente de la Rabia in Zubiri is said to cure rabies, so maybe it’ll work on foot rot too.

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